Maria Lobanova: so, what is a Russian feast? What is happening with Russian cuisine, how we are perceived in the world, what we want to be? I’d like to start with Victoria.
Victoria Shelegova: I am for the traditional view of Russian cuisine. But at the same time I do not reject what is happening now. It is interesting and beautiful. At a Russian party, in my opinion, there should be vodka, pickles, pies, mushrooms, bacon, pancakes and, depending on the possibilities, red or black caviar.
Maria Lobanova: Volodya, what products do you think are included in the new Russian cuisine today?
Vladimir Mukhin: actually, it is impossible to speak about new and old kitchen, it is wrong. Under Grozny there was one story, under Peter-another, under Catherine-the third, in Soviet times-the fourth. I would like to talk about the future, despite the fact that we are now, in the present, trying to do something with Russian products. Remember, before were Gosty? You just couldn’t change one recipe or another. Milk tea on the menu? So you can’t just make tea without milk. What if you steal from the state?
Victoria Shelegova: traditional Russian food is underrated. This and useful pickles, and different vegetables, in including steamed, and porridge all sorts of.
Andrey Fomin: I am absolutely sure that Russian cuisine was invented by Arkady Novikov. And the first restaurant that told us what it was was the Royal hunt. Before it, we equated Russian cuisine with Soviet. It was considered some kind of … cheap, or something. Then, remember, everyone aspired to Italian cuisine, then the era of “yakitori” began… and “Tsarskaya Okhota” is the same Russian kitsch, but incredibly elegant. Novikov first told us that Russian cuisine is not fatty pies, mayonnaise and jelly.
Anton Pinsky: you Know what’s amazing? If the restaurant offers a variety of cuisines, ahead of the whole always cutlets, potatoes and the rest. This is evidenced by the statistics of food delivery Delivery Club and ” Yandex.Food.» Everyone thinks that sushi and burgers will come first, but in fact nothing like that.
Vladimir Mukhin: Neither burgers nor the fries are not Russian cuisine.
Anton Pinsky: If it comes to that, the salad is not considered to be Russian. But for us…
Maria Lobanova: Anton, are there cutlets in Beluga?
Anton Kovalkov: Yes, But I would not say that they are somehow more popular than other dishes. We generally balance between traditional and non-traditional cuisine.
Maria Lobanova: Vika, do you eat potatoes with cutlets?
Victoria Shelegova: Eating, of course. But here’s the thing: when we were in Mandrog near St. Petersburg for the New year, I realized what Russian cuisine is in high performance. This is when you are given Guryev porridge with raisins and not just pies, but wickets, specially made, traditional. Or mushroom soup, for example, with Greek. But Olivier — it’s still more Soviet times.
Anton Pinsky: Probably, now the most popular and successful restaurants of Russian cuisine are “Magadan”, “Gorynych” and Valenok.
Maria Lobanova: but it’s still some kind of adaptation of Russian cuisine. Especially The “Dragon”. By the way, why are potatoes and cutlets in all restaurants with Russian cuisine?
Vladimir Mukhin: Well, look, if you write the word “cutlet” in the menu, it’s already half a hit. And if she still will correctly cooked, then hit on all 100 %. But this is not Russian cuisine, we are talking about such adapted food of the Soviet period.
Anton Kovalkov: you can’t get the words out of the song. 70 years is an era.
Andrey Fomin: it is Important and interesting to see the evolution of Russian cuisine. Indeed, I think it all began with the “Royal hunt”. Then there was Anatoly KOMM — the first person who gave us sweets from pate. This is a milestone, the important paint that adapted the Novikov trend. Further-more: the new greatest genius Vladimir Mukhin invented his coordinate system, which is not connected with Arkady Novikov and Anatoly KOMM. And for Mukhin I would call Grishechkin, without whom we can not perceive St. Petersburg, St. Petersburg school. What he composes in “Kokoko” is also some kind of its own direction, its own history.
Maria Lobanova:” Pushkin ” you do not include in this list?
Andrei Fomin: “Pushkin” has not revealed anything to us, except for the design and stunning atmosphere.
Vladimir Mukhin: actually, without the Comm there would be no us. He was the person who started to be creative, who said: “Guys, Russian cuisine is modern, it’s possible!”And did what he did. I believe that our task — modern chefs-to travel all over the country, collect old Russian recipes, come back here, understand them and cook.
Andrei Fomin: Volodya, can I interrupt. I, frankly, until the end of not share yours fanatical focus on the old Russian cuisine. I don’t think she was. I have a very rare book — “Feast of the coronation of Russian tsars”. It was an era before potatoes. And you know what the coronation of Russian tsars served?
Victoria Shelegova: Cereal.
Andrey Fomin: Rutabaga, bear meat, deer, cabbage soup, cranberries.
Victoria Shelegova: Russian food were very useful.
Andrei Fomin: but it was quite primitive.
Maria Lobanova: in the Soviet version, Yes.
Victoria Shelegova: If we ate well, we wouldn’t have to do this stupid healthy lifestyle.
Andrei Fomin: I wanted to say something else. The fact that the era of postmodernism has long begun in art and cinema. And what you are doing today, Volodya, is brilliant. This is a beautiful marketing story about Russian cuisine.
Vladimir Mukhin: I Really do not want our children to continue to eat Olivier and herring under a fur coat. I swear.
Maria Lobanova: And I don’t want them to eat herring under a fur coat.
Anton Pinsky: None of us can clearly articulate the subject, what is the Russian cuisine. In Russia lives a huge number of different peoples. And everyone contributed to the domestic cuisine something different. Personally for me, Russian dishes are cutlets and salad “Rustic”. And for someone-Olivier, pickles.
Anton Pinsky: Today, in my opinion, people want simple and understandable food. That’s all, we ate sushi, burgers and pizza. Yes and at all, love cutlets — this our genetics.
Maria Lobanova: so until we change the genetic code, we will eat cutlets?
Anton Pinsky: And we will not change it.
Victoria Shelegova: Why change it? Cutlets are a very healthy food.
Anton Pinsky: But the borscht is a Ukrainian soup?
Vladimir Mukhin: Borscht 15 species, I taught them. Red with beetroot is Ukrainian. Russian borsch is also there — in the middle lane, green.
Victoria Shelegova: I am very sorry that our food and all the national in principle, is constantly criticized. In Russian food there is nothing bad and harmful. I believe that the most useful product is fermented sauerkraut. The whole world begins to eat it and is surprised, they say, how did we not know that it fights many diseases?
Vladimir Mukhin: When you go to the organic store in Los Angeles, there is always green buckwheat, fried buckwheat, Borodino bread.
Victoria Shelegova: I drive around the world buckwheat all as a gift.
Maria Lobanova: What products have really become a revelation for foreigners? What can we be proud of? In addition to cucumber, caviar, ballet and space.
Russian Russian Vladimir Mukhin: Until we, the Russians, begin to eat Russian cuisine in Russia, it is pointless to talk about it, I think.
Maria Lobanova: Andrey, do you often request Russian cuisine for events?
Andrei Fomin: Russian people are sure that the tables should literally be bursting with food. I’ve been doing weddings for 20 years, and not one person has ever said, ” Look, this is junk food.” We can be as much as you like passionate about HLS, but when it comes to holidays-everything, we do not know the measure. Both Polina Kitsenko and Natasha Davydova will not affect this in any way. As for traditional Russian cuisine, it is rarely asked. This is a story for very advanced aesthetes. Of course, everyone here wants either Volodya Mukhin, or Novikov Catering, or something from Rappoport.
Anton Pinsky: it’s fashionable to be Russian Now, whatever you say. Bloggers can criticize our food as much as they want, but nobody knows what they do alone — maybe they go and eat a big plate of borscht and dumplings.
Andrei Fomin: I would like to draw your attention to the issue of trends. Every year we with experts make for Spoon the guide “100 best restaurants of Moscow”. And you know what? People are gradually moving away from Italian establishments because we have our own history. “Doctor Zhivago”, Beluga, “Gorynych” – this is a new genre, which was not 8 years ago.
Vladimir Mukhin: what is important to understand: food is very close to art. Every cook has his own handwriting. And restaurants stopped just feeding people. The more interesting and deeper combinations in food, the brighter they touch you.
Anton Kovalkov: and remembered.
Andrei Fomin: another giant trend that we can not but touch on is the gastro — markets. The Central market, Usachevsky, Danilovsky… It is absolutely new, grandiose tendency. When for 400 rubles the father took something in one place, mother-in another, children-in the third. But in the end all sit at the same table.
Anton Kovalkov: Yes, the culture of eating out, of course, is increasing.
Shelegova Vic: Listen, that’s the “right food”, which brought home in containers. Why not make it Russian. Suggest the right porridge, for example.
Vladimir Mukhin: nobody needs that.
Maria Lobanova: I am for the future of Russian cuisine to be connected, on the one hand, with some primordial traditions, and on the other-with the change of Soviet standards.
Vladimir Mukhin: for me it is important that the cook is a profession, not a dirty and unpopular craft, as it was before. The future is in the absence of a barrier between the cook and the guest.
Anton Kovalkov: it’s also great that more and more young people come who want to cook Russian dishes.